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howto:using_the_3d_printer:rostock_delta

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Rostock Delta Printer

Rostock Delta 3D Printer Rostock from below Rostock from above

Rostock 3D Delta printer http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock

Configuration

Firmware

Marlin fork by J Crocholl available at https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin/

The most recent version wouldn't compile for us, so we went back a couple of weeks to before the latest updates to the auto levelling code and used: https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin/tree/d485988becdc5e70e2913f3f629cc9dd825a7f28 (click 'Download Zip' on the right of the page to get the code).

After copying the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h from the Marlin/example_configurations/delta/ directory overwriting the ones in the Marlin directory, we changed the following settings to match this printer:

Configuration.h changes

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 285.0 // mm
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 177.0 // mm
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 23.5 // mm

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

// changed endstops, so now need this commented out
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 286.8 // 250 For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80, 80, 80, 148}  // default steps per unit for Kossel (GT2, 20 tooth)

#define G3D_PANEL // when LCD panel is attached
<code>#define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "MHV Rostock"

Installing firmware on the Rostock printer

You need to have to Arduino software installed from here http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software (we were using 1.05).

Plug the USB cable from the printer into your computer and open the Arduino software (Arduino.app on Mac). Set the board in the tools menu to an Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK, and the serial board to whatever is correct for your USB port (usb.tty on Mac).

Then open the Marlin.ino file in the Marlin directory where you edited the config file. Verify that it compiles, and if it does, upload it to the printer.

Software for printing

We've downloaded the Cura software from here: http://software.ultimaker.com

During the configuration wizard, create a 'machine' called Rostock by selecting machine kind “Other”, pressing 'next' and then selecting 'custom' on the Other Machine Information panel. Press 'next' again and you will see a screen asking for details of the printer. Fill it with these values:

Machine name:  Rostock
Machine width: 200
Machine depth: 200
Machine height: 400
Nozzle size: 0.5
Heated bed:  tick
Bed centre is 0,0,0: tick

Select the same port as you did for the Arduino, and set the baud rate to 250000.

Cura settings that worked (still room for improvement):

NOTE: These have been changing as we work out how the speed/layer height and flow rate interact. Latest idea is a lower flow rate 90% or less, and then balancing speed with layer height - need to use slower speed for larger layer height because each layer needs more plastic. We think that the hot end is slightly blocked and this is causing variations in the flow. For most prints this isn't noticeable, but is causing some problems for overhangs and prints with openings. The latest setting are on the iMac in the upstairs entry.

Faster Cura settings:

Plastic Feed

The entry to the plastic tube is now smaller and has a small rim, so you need to rotate the feed plastic gently until it feeds into the tube.

If the tensioning wheel is too tight it will stop the feed, if it is too loose you can hear the feed motor running without load. It should be just a turn or two past finger tight. Make sure the roller wheel is over the feed plastic, it is possible to have it beside the plastic which doesn't work. If it is over tightened it grinds the feed plastic.

Bed Levelling

Bed has been levelled by *removing* the bulldog clips and just taping the glass to stop it moving but let it sit flat instead of being bent.

We've now installed height adjustment screws that the endstops hit to set the 0 position. Please don't adjust these unless you know what you are doing (ask someone who has done it before to show you how).

Useful G-Code Commands

G1 Z100 - Go to 100mm on the Z axis.

G1 F1000 - Set movement rate to 1000mm/minute

M114 - Get current position of print head

M104 S220 - Set hotend temperature to 220C

Solving Printing Problems

Lacy prints

'Lacy' prints mean that not enough plastic is coming through the hot end. We've seen two reasons for this:

* our latest guess is that the having feed rate too high causes blocking in the hot end which means variation in the flow * extruder grinding instead of feeding the plastic - see above for adjusting the extruder. (might be caused by high flow rate)

You should be able to see if the extruder is working by watching it closely while testing:

Set hotend temperature to 245C: M104 S245 Extrude some plastic: G1 E10' Note that by default the E commands are relative to the start point, so to extrude another 10mm you need to use G1 E20''.

Example Prints

farm6.staticflickr.com_5558_14017950888_9d9b96377d.jpg

howto/using_the_3d_printer/rostock_delta.1403664083.txt.gz · Last modified: 2014/06/25 02:41 by brenda